Papua New Guinea | Baroida Estate | Gesha Washed #7904
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Origin and Sourcing
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Roast Details
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Taste Profile
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Papua New Guinea | Baroida Estate | Gesha Washed #7904 - When is peak flavour?
Light Roast - Roasted on Roest L100 Plus
This single-variety Gesha lot from Baroida Estate blends the classic PNG washed profile of black tea and mandarin orange with the complex florals and stone fruit of high-altitude Gesha.
Baroida Estate is located in the Kainantu District, Eastern Highlands Province. The estate was founded by Ben Colbran in the 1960s, when the Government encouraged foreign agriculturalists to begin cultivating land throughout the highlands. Ben first purchased the land from a native man named Taro and was among the first farmers to cultivate coffee in these valleys. Today, Ben's son Nichol runs the plantation.
As part of his never-ending efforts to expand and improve quality at Baroida Estate, Nichol planted 22,200 Gesha coffee plants in 2017. The first lot of fully washed Gesha was produced in 2021. Given the excellent cup profile, Nichol has already moved forward with expanding his Gesha production, growing an additional 800 Gesha seedlings in the nursery and 6,000 in the seedbeds.
The name Baroida comes from the Baroida spirit, believed by locals to reside in a large river rock sitting in one of the main rivers flowing through the estate. This particular rock has stubbornly remained in the middle of the river for as long as anybody can remember, refusing to budge through the most severe floods, even when other rocks have been washed away.
The Baroida plantation sits at the apex of the Lamari river valley and the Mount Jabarra range, at about 1,700 to 1,850 metres above sea level, flanked by mountains filled with smallholder coffee producers who cultivate close to a million trees.
Cultivation
One of the biggest challenges the Colbrans faced when they first started out was soil water-logging. The system widely used for planting coffee seedlings in Papua New Guinea was adapted from Kenya: dig a hole approximately one metre wide by one metre deep, fill it with topsoil, and plant the seedling in it.
This method was completely unsuitable for the wet highlands of PNG, where average annual rainfall is 90 inches (against Kenya's under 60). The issue was solved by digging drainage ditches between each row of coffee. Over time Ben became very good at reading the coffee to see what it needed, and that knowledge was passed on to Nichol, who still implements it today.
More shade trees have since been planted to reduce fertilizer requirements and keep weeds under control. Of course, with more shade comes lower yields, so Colbran Coffeelands has established renovation and planting programs to meet future demand. According to Nichol, the high quality of coffee from Colbran Coffeelands is in part due to the old-fashioned systems that have been in place since the late 60s.
Harvest & Post Harvest
Meticulous separation for quality control helps maintain the high quality of the estate's coffee. After careful sorting, cherry is pulped on disk pulpers, then dry-ferments in vats for approximately 36 hours. Water is pumped into the vats in a circular motion to naturally agitate the coffee and remove any remaining mucilage. Parchment is sun-dried on tarps, turned regularly to ensure even drying.
We source the best quality lots, which are separated and allocated specifically for us before being hulled, graded and prepared for export.
About the Gesha Variety
Gesha (also spelled Geisha) is known for its exceptional cup quality, especially when grown at high altitudes. The variety comes from Ethiopian landrace coffees collected from Ethiopian coffee forests in the 1930s, and the name derives from Ethiopia's Gori Gesha forest.
There is some confusion with several genetically distinct varieties that have all been called Gesha, but the most famous is the Panama one. The variety was brought to Lyamungu research station in Tanzania and from there to Centro Agronómico Tropical de Investigación y Enseñanza (CATIE) in Central America in 1953, where it was logged as T2722. CATIE distributed T2722 across Panama in the 1960s for its Coffee Leaf Rust resistance, but its brittle branches meant it was not widely planted.
Panama Gesha reached its modern fame in 2005 when a Gesha lot won the Best of Panama competition and broke records at over $20 per pound. Today, Gesha is known for its delicate florals, jasmine and stone fruit.
Coffee in Papua New Guinea
Papua New Guinea is a relative newcomer to the specialty coffee scene. The remote locations of the nation's smallholders - who produce 85% of the country's total coffee - combined with historically poor infrastructure has made the transition to specialty difficult. Nonetheless, the country is working towards innovative solutions that will hopefully lead to better quality coffee and improved livelihoods for its smallholder coffee producers.